Brioni’s Indian Touch

IF ONLY LOOKS COULD KILL, à la James Bond. Rome-based Italian menswear maison Brioni, known for its slick, sharp suits worn by Pierce Brosnan in James Bond films, has made a triumphant return to the capital in partnership with DS Group with a store at The Chanakya mall in New Delhi. “With the Indian luxury market expected to reach $100-200 billion by 2030 (Bain & Company), rise in UHNWIs with assets over $30 million, an expanding middle class, increased use of e-commerce platforms and demand from Tier-II and Tier-III cities, we are committing investments to capitalise on this growth,” says Ritesh Kumar, spokesperson, DS Group.

So, what makes a Brioni bespoke suit special? “A Brioni client expects a beautiful light suit, made with quality fabric that makes the wearer feel at ease, with no constrictions,” says Angelo Petrucci, master tailor, Brioni, who was in India for the boutique launch. With materials from top suppliers all over the world, Brioni’s repertoire includes 800 fabrics, many of which are exclusive to the maison, which was founded in 1945 by Nazareno Fonticoli and Gaetano Savini. It takes six-eight weeks to create a bespoke Brioni garment through meticulous work and skill of over 180 artisans in Brioni’s Atelier in Penne in Italy’s Abruzzo region.

And it’s the perfect example of slow luxury. “A Brioni suit is crafted with the intention of evolving alongside its wearer,” says Angelo. “The seam allowance is structured to support alterations that accommodate shifts in body shape over a lifetime. Our master tailors can evaluate any request for sartorial alteration. Moreover, we can repair or recondition certain rips in the fabric or frayed pocket edges.”

Always dressed up on the go, Angelo often dons a suit by Brioni in Ventiquattro, an anti-crease fabric that ensures a polished look. “I can spill coffee on it and get to my appointment with no stains,” he says. In terms of fit, he always goes with bespoke jackets and ‘Journey’ trousers with a self-regulating, elasticated waistband. Brioni style opts for larger lapels to better frame the face of the wearer. “I believe you can wear the same suit on different occasions thanks to accessories and knitwear/shirt you style it with,” he says. The maison also offers ready-to-wear shoes and leather accessories.

As an homage to India, Brioni offers its version of the bandhgala, which has always been a part of its bespoke service. “It isn’t easy to integrate this style within the classic sartorial construction,” says Angelo. “But with specific tricks and a well-studied combination of internal layers (100% natural), Brioni has been able to find the right balance between style, quality, and fit.” He adds ever since 1952, when Brioni held its men’s fashion show (the first-ever men’s fashion show in history), the maison began travelling across the globe with itinerant shows as well as trunk shows. “Before each trip, the maison would study the local culture to marry Brioni’s Roman style with local touches as far as possible,” says Angelo.

Since 2022, Brioni has showcased women’s outfits in its Ready-to-Wear collection, something that one may see in India. For Spring Summer 2024, Brioni’s Ready-to-Wear was all about lightness and freedom. “Instead of being overpowering, Brioni has opted for suppleness of construction, stemming from the time it takes to procure the best materials and bring a piece to life through painstaking handwork in our Penne ateliers,” says Angelo. Colours of Spring are Roman–sand, rust, blue and green. Tailoring is relaxed, with fuller volumes and hollowed shoulders–Brioni’s soft take on formal wear. The same sartorial attention to detail is to be found in leisurewear and sportswear. “At night, lightness takes on a mantle of muted shine on shawl-collared dinner jackets cut in silk and peak-lapel smoking jackets in jigsaw jacquards,” says Angelo. “For women, there are blazers, trousers, shirts, trench coats, sleeveless coats, dinner dresses and long dresses evolved directly from the men’s wardrobe.”